Author Archives: Timmy Tan

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio PAM 852: Cover Story

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Panerai ushers in the Year of the Rooster with the PAM 852. Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio PAM00852 featuring the engraving of a rooster on the protective cover over its dial. Photo: Officine Panerai.

With 2017 being the Year of The Rooster, it comes as no surprise that Panerai has once again presented a Sealand limited edition (of 99 pieces) hunter-case watch featuring the cockerel.

[Editor’s note: More information on what hunter-case watches or open-face watches are can be found on Renaissance Watch Repair – www.pocketwatchrepair.com]

As a hunter-case watch, it has a protective metal cover over the dial and it bears the rooster motif. The story behind the cockerel is about the Year of the Rooster and how the engraving was created.

Introduced in 2017, the PAM 852 Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio in a 44m diameter brushed steel case is powered by the P.9000 automatic movement with 3 days of power reserve. Photo: Officine Panerai.

Italian master engravers were engaged to carve out the relief of the rooster using the ancient “sparsello” technique, so-called because of the special engraving tool used.

Fine grooves have to be created in the steel cover before these are inlaid with gold threads in multiple parallel layers. These are then “beaten” till they completely fill the grooves and form the outline of the rooster and decorative motifs.

Do note that the inlaying of the gold threads are performed after the cover has been engraved. As such, the slightest error may result in a rejected artwork.

The rooster motif was created by Italian master engravers using the ancient “sparsello” technique, so-called because of the special engraving tool used. The PAM 852 Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio is limited to 99 pieces. Priced at EUR23,000 / SGD33,900. Photo: Officine Panerai.

The rooster, as highlighted by Panerai, is “one of the most energetic and determined signs of the Chinese zodiac” and”… “symbolizes the virtue of perseverance.

“Those born under this sign are convincing persuaders, courageous and creative, determined not to depend on the decisions of others, and at the same time they love to be at the centre of attention.”

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio
PAM00852
Introduced in 2017
Technical Specifications
• Panerai P.9000 automatic movement, 13¾-lignes
• 197 components
• Movement thickness: 7.9mm
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 28 jewels
• 3 days power reserve
• Two barrels
• Date display
• Polished steel cover
• Sapphire crystal made of corundum with anti-reflective coating, 1.6mm thick
• Grey dial with Arabic numerals and hour markers
• 44mm diameter case in brushed steel AISI 316L
• Water-resistant to 10 bar (approx. 100m)
• Crown protection device
• See-through sapphire crystal case back
• Panerai personalized strap and brushed steel buckle
• Comes with a second interchangeable strap, tool for changing the strap and steel screwdriver
Limited to 99 pieces

Another related article on timewerke.com that may be of interest:
i. Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 44mm PAM00848: The Year of the Goat

More Panerai-related articles on timewerke.com can be found here.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar: For Life

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Vacheron Constantin’s smartwatch – the Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar. Introduced in 2016, it houses the Calibre 1120 QP automatic movement in a 41.5mm diameter case in 18K white gold with the thickness of 8.1mm. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy.

Have you ever wondered for a moment what is actually defined as a smartwatch?

Well, most will associate a smartwatch as a wristwatch with an electronic screen display that not only displays the time but comes with other added features, most times loosely marketed as lifestyle enhancing apps but whether these genuinely improve your life or are must-haves is debatable.

In a Deloitte Watch Industry Study conducted in 2015, some 61% of the respondents ticked off long battery life as an important feature in a smartwatch.

For those thinking of buying one, do take note of one advice offered by PC Magazine: “Buy it for looks, don’t buy it for life.” We fully agree.

As the styles and technologies used in smartwatches will continually evolve, one cannot expect to wear the same smartwatch for years. After all, what is considered a new smartwatch today is old tomorrow.

For horological purists, “smartwatches” are typically mechanical timekeeping mechanisms that tell more than the time; they provide horological information such as calendar indications, the age of the moon phases and even audio time-telling experiences through striking mechanisms known as repeaters.

Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar is a smartwatch. It is a mechanical masterpiece of the human spirit and is rightfully “smart”. It is not a fashion item lasting a season or two, and can operate for years and offer accurate horological information thanks to its self-winding mechanism with no need whatsoever for any worry over “battery life”.

Case back of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar. The highlight is the 22K gold rotor decorated with the wind rose together with polished, sandblasted and finely-grained finishings. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy.

A mechanical smartwatch can also offer “connectivity” – what we would define as the emotional connection leading to its demand and the eventual purchase. In other words, the mechanical smartwatch can offer both emotional and functional satisfaction… for life.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar
Reference: 4300V/120G-B102
Technical Specifications:
• Calibre 1120 QP automatic movement
• Hallmark of Geneva certified
• 276 components
• Movement diameter: 29.6mm (12½-lignes)
• Movement height: 4.05mm
• 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75Hz)
• 36 jewels
• Approximately 40 hours power reserve
• 22K gold Overseas oscillating weight
• Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
• Perpetual calendar
• Date, day and month displays
• Leap year indication
• Moon phase display
• Translucent grey-lacquered dial, sunburst-finished base with velvet-finished flange, 18K gold hour markers, hours and minute hands with white luminescent material
• 41.5mm diameter case in 18K white gold, 8.1mm thick
• Water-resistant to 5 bar (approximately 50m)
• Transparent sapphire crystal case back
• Bracelet in 18K white gold with half-Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-rushed links
• Presented with two additional straps: a second strap in dark grey hand-stitched Mississippiensis alligator leather with large square scales featuring black nubuck lining and micro-perforated effect
• Third strap in black rubber
• Clasps: bracelet in 18K white gold secured by an 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort adjustment system
• Each additional buckle comes fitted with an 18K white gold buckle
• Presented with a watch winder
• Comes with a corrector pen accessory
Note:
The Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar is available only in Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Another related article that might be of interest:
i. Vacheron Constantin Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar: Mechanically Smart