Author Archives: Timmy Tan

Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye: Eye Protection

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Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye. Introduced in 2015, it features the Calibre RM26-02 manual-winding movement and tourbillon. The case of the RM 26-02 Evil Eye is made of TZP black ceramic where 95% of the material is in yttrium zirconium. Limited to 50 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye. Introduced in 2015, it features the Calibre RM26-02 manual-winding movement and tourbillon. The case of the RM 26-02 Evil Eye is made of TZP black ceramic where 95% of the material is in yttrium zirconium. Limited to 25 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

What is the “evil eye”? The “evil eye” is a malevolent glare or look given to someone or an object that casts a magical curse related to supernatural harm on the person or thing.

Such a concept is known in many cultures and it is known as Ayin Harsha in Arabic, Mauvais œil in French, Dhristi in Hindu and Ayin Ha’ra in Hebrew.

Not only is it mentioned in ancient Greek and Roman texts, it is also found in the Bible.

Under Proverbs 23:6 in the King James version of the Bible, it states: “Eat thou not the bread of him that hath an evil eye, neither desire thou his dainty meats.”

How can one counter the evil eye?

There are various counter measures such as protective talisman like the Eye of Horus amulet, the Jewish red string or the Irish four leaf clover.

The method will depend on the culture and geographic region, according to an article on livescience.com, which adds that amulets using the colour blue (which symbolises heaven or godliness) and an eye symbol can be worn in addition to charms, potions and spells. Even saying the word “garlic” can be used to defend oneself against the evil eye.

For Richard Mille, the answer lies on their Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye which features not one but two evil eyes – one on the front and the other at the back, which means double protection against any potential evil eye threats.

What are some situations whereby Richard Mille’s Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye may come in handy?

Well, what if someone unexpected “bursts” onto the scene unexpectedly with naughty intent and tries to draw the attention of important people around you away? This was perhaps what happened to Italian movie actress Sophia Loren in 1957 and an “eye incident” occurred – read this article for more: Was Sophia Loren giving Jayne Mansfield the “Evil Eye”?

Case back of Richard Mille’s Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye. The burning flames and evil eyes (one on the front, the other at the back) are Grand feu enamel and micro-lacquer artwork made by Olivier Vaucher. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

Case back of Richard Mille’s Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye. The burning flames and evil eyes (one on the front, the other at the back) are Grand feu enamel and micro-lacquer artwork made by Olivier Vaucher. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

The evil eyes on the RM 26-02 are created by Olivier Vaucher from 3N red gold with the flames and eyes hand-carved using specially-made chisels. Grand feu enamelling is used on the eyes which are painted onto the gold dial using oxides before being fired at high temperatures of between 800 degrees and 900 degrees Celsius several times.

These are then finished with several more layers of translucent lacquer which are fired under high temperatures as well. Even micro-lacquerwork is hand-applied on the flames.

The Calibre RM26-02 manual-winding movement is protected by a black TZP ceramic case. The case middle is in 5N red gold while the bezel and caseback are in TZP black ceramic.

TZP black ceramic is a low-density material that is highly scratch-resistant and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. It is 95% made of yttrium ziroconium.

In addition to the “evil eye” protection, do note that this is a tourbillon. Speaking of protection, the safety feature for the Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye is the torque limiting crown which prevents accidental overwinding of the tourbillon movement.

As they say, “prevention is better than cure.”

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike: Strikingly clear as crystal

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Chopard L.U.C Full Strike in 18K rose gold. Commemorating the 20th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture (2006 to 2016), it features the brand’s in-house Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement that is chronometer-certified and bears the Poinçon de Genève hallmark. Its steel hammers strike on sapphire gongs. Limited to 20 pieces. Photo: © Chopard

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike in 18K rose gold. Commemorating the 20th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture (2006 to 2016), it features the brand’s in-house Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement that is chronometer-certified and bears the Poinçon de Genève hallmark. Its steel hammers strike on sapphire gongs. Limited to 20 pieces. Photo: © Chopard

Chopard is no stranger to mechanical striking mechanisms, having introduced the L.U.C “Strike One” in 2006 and the L.U.C Tech “Strike One” in 2008, both of which chime the passing (or the welcoming, depending on how the owner wants to interpret it) of every hour with a hammer strike to the gong.

It isn’t as easy as it sounds to create their hourly chiming mechanisms; the first L.U.C “Strike One” for instance, required two years of development time.

As such, it will not be difficult to understand why six years of development was required for the L.U.C Full Strike, Chopard’s very first minute repeater made in-house at its Manufacture in Fleurier.

One look at the in-house Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement and you’d easily agree that this complicated mechanism is by far, Chopard’s most sophisticated and innovative. Around 15,000 hours of development time were spent on the Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L, of which there are three patents.

A mechanical minute repeater wristwatch is one that is able to chime the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, typically by way of hammers that strike a gong made of a metal alloy.

Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike movement is innovative because its steel hammers, visible at the 10 o’clock position strikes transparent sapphire crystal gongs. Using sapphire crystal for the transmission of sound in a minute repeater isn’t entirely new but having this material for gongs was, till now, previously unheard of.

Case back of Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike housing the Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement. Photo: © Chopard

Case back of Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike housing the Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement. Photo: © Chopard

The use of sapphire crystal gongs is what Chopard describes as “… the perfect loudspeaker… to diffuse the chimes of the hammers striking” the material of which the resultant tones are pure, rich and full, powerful and resonant.

The brand’s description becomes crystal clear (pun intended) by mentioning that the Full Strike “… chimes as a silver knife were delicately tapping a Bohemian crystal glass placed on the table of a gourmet restaurant.”

Now unlike some chiming or striking mechanisms which emit cold, metallic and / or abrupt tones, Chopard’s Full Strike delivers chimes which are full-bodied and crystal-clear.

The gongs are tuned to two notes, C and F, the brand adds, and the lingering and pleasing chimes have “a very low sound-deadening factor”.

This is the first time sapphire crystal is used as gongs in a minute repeater. In other words, sapphire is not only the generator but the acoustic amplifier.

What is even more surprising is that the gongs and watch glass are one – what were traditionally separate components are machined from a single sapphire crystal block!

This fact explains why a patent has been filed for this innovation and the “union” between gongs and watch glass allows the sound to be transmitted directly outside of the watch “with all its strength and singular personality”, and if we may also add, intensity.

The gongs and watch glass of the L.U.C Full Strike form one piece as both are machined from single sapphire crystal block. This is the first time sapphire crystal is used as gongs in a minute repeater. In other words, sapphire is not only the generator but the acoustic amplifier. Illustration: © Chopard

The gongs and watch glass of the L.U.C Full Strike form one piece as both are machined from single sapphire crystal block. This is the first time sapphire crystal is used as gongs in a minute repeater. In other words, sapphire is not only the generator but the acoustic amplifier. Illustration: © Chopard

The transmission of acoustic waves are as one as there are no “breaks” because of the use of different material or separate components.

Breakage of the sapphire crystal due to the strikes of the hammers is a valid concern by collectors with regards to Chopard’s Full Strike. However, rest assured that the brand has performed the necessary homologation; even after one-and-a-half million strikes with the steel hammers, the sapphire crystal gongs did not shatter.

Among the major difficulties were the machining of the gongs and watch glass as an integrated component. Achieving this successfully took Chopard more than three years of development time.

The L.U.C Full Strike is a fitting commemorative piece for Chopard Manufacture’s 20th anniversary (1996 to 2016).

Such an occasion calls for the traditional celebratory Champagne toast. If you were to use crystal glasses like those from Saint-Louis glassware (Compagnies des Cristalleries de Saint Louis) which we did, you will probably be surprised at how full-bodied the ringing sound is when two crystal glasses are tapped against each other.