The Wristwatch Handbook: An important reference

The Wristwatch Handbook: A Comprehensive Guide to Mechanical Wristwatches by Ryan Schmidt, published by ACC Art Books Ltd.

When I first thumbed through The Wristwatch Handbook and looked at the images, my initial fear was that it was going to be another cut-and-paste job.

However, such a fear was totally unfounded. Once you begin reading what Ryan Schmidt has to share, the content value of what this book has to offer multiplies exponentially.

For example, did you know that the 24-hour orange-tipped hand for referencing the second time zone (home time) on the Rolex Oyster Explorer II can also be used as a day and night indicator?

This is a useful feature especially for explorers in extreme environments where they cannot easily discern between night and day.

If you own a chronograph watch, do you know what a Compax layout is? How about the Valjoux layout or even the Tri-Compax layout? If the answer is no, then this is the ideal handbook for you as it is a great aid as an educational guide and reference tool.

Did you also know that Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5980 Nautilus chronograph features what is known as the clock-face register, as its combined chronograph hour and minute sub-dial mimicks the layout of a regular watch face.

Discovering why the chronograph sub-dial on Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5980 Nautilus is known as the clock-face register. The Wristwatch Handbook is available at Kinokuniya in Singapore. Kinokuniya is Singapore’s largest bookstore  and this resource-rich horological book is priced at SGD105.93. Photo: © TANG Portfolio / TimeWerke.

Many of the images are of contemporary watches which makes this handbook highly relevant not just for novice watch enthusiasts but for seasoned collectors.

One pleasant surprise was the explanation of resonance watches of which there are only a few in the market.

As John Reardon, International Head of Watches at Christie’s points out: “For the knowledgeable and experienced collector this book opens up the door to other collecting categories that may not have been of interest to you before.”

What must also be noted is that rather than just focus on the big brands, Schmidt has included brands such as Romain Gauthier, MB&F, Louis Moinet, Ball Watch, Parmigiani, Greubel Forsey, Harry Winston, Christophe Claret and Maurice Lacroix. Even the relatively “new kid on the block”, HYT, is featured.

“Rather than just focus on 10 or 20 of the leading brands, the book is brand agnostic. It doesn’t matter what price it retails for, what logo it has on the dial, or what holding company owns the logo, if it does a great job of illustrating a given concept, it gets the attention it deserves,” Schmidt explains.

We are pretty sure that there are many gems in this book that the reader can pick up, be it watch tips or educational information.

The Wristwatch Handbook will not have a place on my bookshelf; it earns itself a permanent place on my work table simply because it will be referenced regularly.

i. More on The Wristwatch Handbook at its official web page at www.wristwatchhandbook.com.
ii. Read what others say about The Wristwatch Handbook.

Ball Watch Engineer Master II Volcano: A Case Against Magnetism Part II

Ball Watch Engineer Master II Volcano. The Engineer Master II Volcano features a case made of mu metal and carbon. This case has the anti-magnetic resistance of up to 80,000 A/m. Recommended retail price: SGD3,980. With the Engineer Master II Volcano, Ball Watch has laid its claim to having the first watch case made of mu metal and carbide composite. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

Ball Watch Engineer Master II Volcano. The Engineer Master II Volcano features a case made of mu metal and carbon. This case has the anti-magnetic resistance of up to 80,000 A/m. Recommended retail price: SGD3,980. With the Engineer Master II Volcano, Ball Watch has laid its claim to having the first watch case made of mu metal and carbide composite. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

In addition to the Earth’s magnetic field, we face magnetic forces all around us daily. These magnetic forces can be from electrical appliances such as cellular phones, television sets, radios, microwave ovens, personal computers and iPads, what may be termed “electrosmog”.

As the accuracy of a mechanical watch can be easily affected by magnetic fields that we are exposed to, the good folks at Ball Watch continually pay attention to anti-magnetic protection in watches.

What resulted was the Ball Watch Engineer II Magneto S that was introduced in 2014. The Ball Watch Engineer II Magneto S features an anti-magnetic diaphragm made of mu metal positioned at the rear of the watchcase and it can be opened or closed. In the closed position, it covers and protects the watch movement and the anti-magnetic resistance is 80,000 A/m.

The Ball Watch Engineer Magneto S. Introduced in 2014, it features an anti-magnetic diaphragm made of mu metal located at the rear of the watchcase which can be opened or closed. In the closed position covering the watch movement, the anti-magnetic resistance of the Engineer Magneto S is 80,000 A/m. Photo: © Ball Watch.

The Ball Watch Engineer Magneto S. Introduced in 2014, it features an anti-magnetic diaphragm made of mu metal located at the rear of the watchcase which can be opened or closed. In the closed position covering the watch movement, the anti-magnetic resistance of the Engineer Magneto S is 80,000 A/m. Photo: © Ball Watch.

Mu metal is an alloy of nickel, iron, copper and molybdenum that has very high magnetic permeability, allowing it to attract and deflect static or low-frequency magnetic fields lines.

This means that it is a better material alternative to use as compared to soft iron inner shell typically used in watchmaking.

A cube of mu metal combined with carbon (on the left) beside a cube of steel (right). Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

A cube of mu metal combined with carbon (on the left) beside a cube of steel (right). Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

Ball Watch has now taken this a step further by combining mu metal with carbon to produce a watchcase. The result can be seen with superimposed layers of carbon and mu metal, a patented composite material, and Ball Watch has claimed this as a first in watchmaking.

The watchcase was cast in Switzerland and the layers of carbon and mu metal on the case band have an appearance reminiscent of lava from a volcano that has cooled to form volcanic rock. This explains how this Ball Watch Engineer Master II was christened “Volcano”.

The case of the Engineer Master II Volcano is made of mu metal combined with carbon. On the case band, you will be able to see layers of carbon and mu metal which appear to be cooled lava that has formed into volcanic rock. This explains why the Ball Watch Engineer Master II is named “Volcano”. Photos: © TANG Portfolio.

The case of the Engineer Master II Volcano is made of mu metal combined with carbon. On the case band, you will be able to see layers of carbon and mu metal which appear to be cooled lava that has formed into volcanic rock. This explains why the Ball Watch Engineer Master II is named “Volcano”. Photos: © TANG Portfolio.

Carbon has several advantageous. These include its resistance to scratches and impacts in addition to its lightweight properties. The weight of carbon is 20% that of steel used in watchcases.

The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Volcano has the anti-magnetic resistance of up to 80,000 A/m. From what we understand, this anti-magnetic resistance has been certified by an independent Swiss testing institute.

Ball Watch Engineer II Volcano
Introduced in 2016
Technical Specifications:

• Calibre Ball RR1102-C automatic movement
• Chronometer-certified
• 15 micro-gas tubes on the hour and minute hands, and dial for enhanced night reading capability
• Patented anti-magnetic protection
• Anti-magnetic resistance of up to 80,000 A/m
• Shock-resistant to 5,000 g-forces
• Day and date display
• Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
• Screwed-in crown
• Grey dial
• 45mm diameter case in patented Mumetal and carbide composite, 12.4mm thick
• Water-resistant to 100m / 330ft
• Available with either a canvas strap with standard buckle or rubber strap with standard buckle
Priced at SGD3,980 inclusive of tax

Another related article on the Ball Watch Engineer II Volcano is:
i. A Case Against Magnetism Part I