Rolex | TIMEWERKE

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master (Reference 116655) introduced in 2015, features a black dial and the Calibre 3135 automatic movement in a 40mm case in 18K Everose gold. The black ceramic bezel has matt black Cerachrom inserts. Two versions are available: one in 40mm and the other in 37mm (Reference 268655). Shown above is the 40mm model and it is priced at CHF23,800. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

At the annual BaselWorld watch fair in March 2015, the Rolex Yacht-Master collection added another family member – one in a new black and Everose gold.

The Rolex Yacht-Master story began in 1992 and it was known as the “sailors’ watch”. The early model, the ref. 16628, water-resistant to 100 metres, was in yellow gold and was powered by the Calibre 3135 automatic movement.

For the 2015 Yacht-Master piece, what is prominent is the bi-directional rotating bezel featuring the matt black Cerachrom insert in black ceramic paired with its matching black dial, which is said to be a first for this model.

Take note of the numerals and graduations on the bezel are raised and are polished, offering high legibility.

This Yacht-Master model takes on its own identity with the high contrast thanks to the black bezel and dial on the 18K Everose gold case.

There are two variations of the 2015 Yacht-Master: the 40mm diameter version (Reference 116655) housing the Calibre 3135 automatic movement and the 37mm model (Reference 268655) with the Calibre 2236 automatic movement.

The 2015 Yacht-Master has a bi-directional rotating bezel featuring the matt black Cerachrom insert paired with a matching black dial that is said to be a first for this model. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

Another key highlight is what most would call the “rubber strap” in layman terms. However, this is what Rolex describes as a new Oysterflex bracelet that comprises a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade that is overmoulded with black elastomer.

Though it looks like a regular rubber strap, this bracelet with elastomer over metal, offers resistance that is comparable to that of a metal bracelet.

A better fit is also offered because of a patented longitudinal cushion system patented by Rolex that holds the watch more comfortably to the wrist. The bracelet is complemented with an 18K gold Everose Oysterlock safety clasp.

This bracelet feature is yet another show how high the “black belt” mastery Rolex has in innovative and technical solutions for wristwatches.

The 40mm Rolex Milgauss (Reference: case: 116400 GV, bracelet: 72400) launched at the 2014 BaselWorld watch fair houses the Calibre 3131 automatic movement and features the Z blue dial. It is water-resistant to 100m (330 feet). Priced at CHF7,800. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

In 1956, the Rolex Milgauss was introduced and it was targeted at engineers and technicians, notably those who were regularly exposed to magnetic fields due to the nature of their profession.

The Milgauss was designed to resist strong magnetic interference of up to 1,000 gauss. The “Mil” came from “mille”, the French word for “thousand” while “gauss” is a measurement for magnetic induction.

It seemed that the Milgauss was the watch of choice for scientists at the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN) in Geneva.

According to Martin Skeet and Nick Urul in their book, Vintage Rolex Sports Models, the first version of the Milgauss was the 6541 model. They add that it was the third version of this model that had a red arrowhead at the tip of the continuous sweep seconds hand.

The characteristic lightning bolt seconds hand seen on modern-day Milgauss watches was first introduced with the fourth version of the 6541 model. However, it was dropped when the Model 1019 Milgauss replaced the 6541.

The first generation Rolex Milgauss with the green sapphire crystal was launched in 2007.

The second generation Milgauss with the green sapphire crystal, launched in 2014, and seen above now features an electric blue dial, named the Z blue dial. The alphabet used refers to the zirconium content.

Ferromagnetic alloys surrounding the movement within the Oyster case of the modern-day Milgauss are its first line of defence against magnetic fields.

The second line of defence involves two key components of the movement – the oscillator and the escapement which are both made of paramagnetic materials developed by Rolex.

The Parachrom hairspring used in the Calibre 3131 of the Milgauss is not affected by magnetic fields and is highly stable even with temperature variations.

Moreover, it is ten times better than a traditional hairspring in the event of shocks.

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