Chopard L.U.C Full Strike: Strikingly clear as crystal

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike in 18K rose gold. Commemorating the 20th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture (2006 to 2016), it features the brand’s in-house Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement that is chronometer-certified and bears the Poinçon de Genève hallmark. Its steel hammers strike on sapphire gongs. Limited to 20 pieces. Photo: © Chopard

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike in 18K rose gold. Commemorating the 20th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture (2006 to 2016), it features the brand’s in-house Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement that is chronometer-certified and bears the Poinçon de Genève hallmark. Its steel hammers strike on sapphire gongs. Limited to 20 pieces. Photo: © Chopard

Chopard is no stranger to mechanical striking mechanisms, having introduced the L.U.C “Strike One” in 2006 and the L.U.C Tech “Strike One” in 2008, both of which chime the passing (or the welcoming, depending on how the owner wants to interpret it) of every hour with a hammer strike to the gong.

It isn’t as easy as it sounds to create their hourly chiming mechanisms; the first L.U.C “Strike One” for instance, required two years of development time.

As such, it will not be difficult to understand why six years of development was required for the L.U.C Full Strike, Chopard’s very first minute repeater made in-house at its Manufacture in Fleurier.

One look at the in-house Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement and you’d easily agree that this complicated mechanism is by far, Chopard’s most sophisticated and innovative. Around 15,000 hours of development time were spent on the Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L, of which there are three patents.

A mechanical minute repeater wristwatch is one that is able to chime the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, typically by way of hammers that strike a gong made of a metal alloy.

Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike movement is innovative because its steel hammers, visible at the 10 o’clock position strikes transparent sapphire crystal gongs. Using sapphire crystal for the transmission of sound in a minute repeater isn’t entirely new but having this material for gongs was, till now, previously unheard of.

Case back of Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike housing the Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement. Photo: © Chopard

Case back of Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike housing the Manufacture Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L manual-winding movement. Photo: © Chopard

The use of sapphire crystal gongs is what Chopard describes as “… the perfect loudspeaker… to diffuse the chimes of the hammers striking” the material of which the resultant tones are pure, rich and full, powerful and resonant.

The brand’s description becomes crystal clear (pun intended) by mentioning that the Full Strike “… chimes as a silver knife were delicately tapping a Bohemian crystal glass placed on the table of a gourmet restaurant.”

Now unlike some chiming or striking mechanisms which emit cold, metallic and / or abrupt tones, Chopard’s Full Strike delivers chimes which are full-bodied and crystal-clear.

The gongs are tuned to two notes, C and F, the brand adds, and the lingering and pleasing chimes have “a very low sound-deadening factor”.

This is the first time sapphire crystal is used as gongs in a minute repeater. In other words, sapphire is not only the generator but the acoustic amplifier.

What is even more surprising is that the gongs and watch glass are one – what were traditionally separate components are machined from a single sapphire crystal block!

This fact explains why a patent has been filed for this innovation and the “union” between gongs and watch glass allows the sound to be transmitted directly outside of the watch “with all its strength and singular personality”, and if we may also add, intensity.

The gongs and watch glass of the L.U.C Full Strike form one piece as both are machined from single sapphire crystal block. This is the first time sapphire crystal is used as gongs in a minute repeater. In other words, sapphire is not only the generator but the acoustic amplifier. Illustration: © Chopard

The gongs and watch glass of the L.U.C Full Strike form one piece as both are machined from single sapphire crystal block. This is the first time sapphire crystal is used as gongs in a minute repeater. In other words, sapphire is not only the generator but the acoustic amplifier. Illustration: © Chopard

The transmission of acoustic waves are as one as there are no “breaks” because of the use of different material or separate components.

Breakage of the sapphire crystal due to the strikes of the hammers is a valid concern by collectors with regards to Chopard’s Full Strike. However, rest assured that the brand has performed the necessary homologation; even after one-and-a-half million strikes with the steel hammers, the sapphire crystal gongs did not shatter.

Among the major difficulties were the machining of the gongs and watch glass as an integrated component. Achieving this successfully took Chopard more than three years of development time.

The L.U.C Full Strike is a fitting commemorative piece for Chopard Manufacture’s 20th anniversary (1996 to 2016).

Such an occasion calls for the traditional celebratory Champagne toast. If you were to use crystal glasses like those from Saint-Louis glassware (Compagnies des Cristalleries de Saint Louis) which we did, you will probably be surprised at how full-bodied the ringing sound is when two crystal glasses are tapped against each other.

Rolex Air-King: Still flying

Rolex Air-King in 40mm stainless steel. Introduced in 2016. Reference (case – bracelet): 116900 – 71200. Powered by the Manufacture Rolex Calibre 3131 automatic movement, COSC-certified. Superlative Chronometer (COSC and Rolex certification after casing). Water-resistant to 100m (330 ft). Photo: © TANG Portfolio / TimeWerke.

Rolex Air-King in 40mm stainless steel. Introduced in 2016. Reference (case – bracelet): 116900 – 71200. Powered by the Manufacture Rolex Calibre 3131 automatic movement, COSC-certified. Superlative Chronometer (COSC and Rolex certification after casing). Water-resistant to 100m (330 ft). Photo: © TANG Portfolio / TimeWerke.

The Rolex Air-King, introduced at the 2016 BaselWorld watch fair, has prominent features such as the 3, 6 and 9 Arabic hour numerals, combined with the smaller numerals for the minutes (in five-minute intervals, that is 5, 10, 20, 25, etc).

What is probably more appealing for collectors is the “Air-King” lettering; these are the same fonts used for the model in the 1950s.

According to Joseph Lavender, author of the article The Complete History of the Rolex Air-King, the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, honoured RAF pilots of the Battle of Britain with a series of aviation-themed watches.

These “Air” series included the Air-Lion, Air-Tiger and the Air-King. Today, only the Air-King remains.

Interestingly, with regards to the Second World War, Lavender also mentioned that Rolex supplied their SpeedKing watches or other models on credit to British POWs (prisoners of war).

Lavender also states that the first “true Air-King was introduced in 1945 with the 4925, the follow-on to the 4365 of “Air” models. The progression for the international market from 4925/4365 (sub-seconds), 44999, 6552, 5500 and others.

The year 1957 is the year of the reference 5500, says Giorgia E Guido Mondani in the book Rolex and it was launched with different names such as Air-King, Metropolitan, Explorer and Everest.

For Rolex, the new Air-King is a tribute to aviation pioneers and the Oyster’s role in the epic story of airflight. This is because Rolex Oyster watches had accompanied aviators in some of history’s most significant flights.

In 1933 for example, the Oyster was with the Houston expedition, the first-ever flight over Mount Everest at the altitude of 10,000 metres (33,000 feet) in extreme weather.

In 1934, Owen Cathcart-Jones and Ken Waller made a return voyage from London to Melbourne (Australia) in record time flying in a twin-engine De Havilland Comet, using a Rolex Oyster as their on-board chronometer.